I’ve always loved the ‘alchemy’ of cooking quinces, as they transform their pale yellow colour into the most exotic, rubescent red. The tartness of quince when peeled, cored and sautéed in nut-brown butter, is the best antidote to the richness of duck or goose. Try it served as a silky puree with quail, guinea fowl, partridge or pheasant. This same puree can also be used as a dessert by adding extra sugar and a vanilla bean during cooking. Small quinces can be baked fresh from the tree after being peeled and cored. Stuffed with walnuts, butter and honey they are delicious as an end to a long Autumn lunch- MB.